FW Rear Light Wiring

Having struggled to work out how to wire the connectors for the rear lights I thought it might be useful to detail what I'd learnt.

First - the o/s and n/s rear light each have two connectors, one is two pin for the reverse light (n/s) and fog light (o/s) and a six pin for the combined indicator/brake/side light.  The wiring is thus:  (read in conjunction with the chassis harness (2921170) Drawing # 4833 D - supplied with the loom a slightly older version is at http://www.manikllc.com/manuals/ )

N/S
Reverse Light:
Grey > Black 139
Grey Red > Green Brown 113
Combined Brake/Side Light White spliced with Indicator Grey then > connector Black 140- earth
Combined Brake/Side Light Red  > connector Green Purple 116 - brake
Combined Brake/Side Light Blue > connector Red Orange 32 - side light
Indicator Grey Red > Green Red 88 - indicator

O/S
Fog Light:
Grey > Black 134
Grey Red > Red Blue 99
Combined Brake/Side Light White spliced with Indicator Grey then > connector Black135 - earth
Combined Brake/Side Light Red  > connector Green Purple 115 - brake
Combined Brake/Side Light Blue > connector Green White 82 - side light
Indicator Grey Red > Red Black 51 - indicator

Seal and Pin



How not to do it


How to do it - you could solder rather that crimp but  you must keep the "lock" area clear of wire/solder

Suitable crimp tool that forms a B

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120873702981?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_809wt_1037

Once crimped you can solder but, the purist would say you shouldn't - it really depends if you've used the correct crimp tool.  As my wife would say "feck it, solder it" that's what I did and looking at it it's also what the loom supplier did!

When you insert the pin into the connector shell you need to ensure that the pin is the correct way around to allow the shell lock to click into the pin lock space.  Once you have all the pins fitted you insert the yellow seal/lock with it's ridges pushing into the shell slots and locking in the pin locks with a final click, it then should not be loose/fall out.  You can use a scribe to check each lock before fitting the seal. Finally you should fill empty shell pin slots with a seal but Westfield didn't supply - a pin with a seal crimped or silicone would probably do.

If you have to use excessive force when connecting the chassis loom to your newly made connector  check that the connector is assembled correctly.  If you remove the yellow seal/lock and any of the locks are misaligned remove the pin and check that the lock area of the pin is clear and the pin was inserted the correct way around, again you can use a scribe to check.

Apologies if you're an expert and this is teaching granny to suck eggs but it took me a number of attempts to get this right and, although many sleeps ago, I worked on aircraft wiring looms and avionics boxes for a living.

Head Lights wiring to follow!!!