The Bonnet & Head Lights

A full (ish) day to work on the car with the only distraction being taking Allanah to and from dancing.  Myles helped me get the side panels and bonnet down from the roof space and clip on the side panels.  This took more effort that I had assumed as the chassis now has the ali panels fitted it's a tight fit requiring the lower lip of the side panel to be eased over the lower chassis.  Once the side panels were roughly in place I offered up the bonnet and moved the side panels to locate into the bonnet dowels.

Next I checked all the gaps around the chassis front and adjusted the position of the bonnet until it was central.  Then under the front of the car to mark up the bonnet and chassis for the hinge, after I was happy I removed the bonnet.

Drilling the hinge took far longer than I thought it would with the stainless steel writing off about half a dozen drill bits. Eventually the hinge was finished and I fitted it to the bonnet, using countersunk bolts and repair washers, then the bonnet to the chassis, using countersunk bolts and rivnuts, and lowered in down over the engine bay and scuttle - all was well.

Next was fitting the headlight brackets and their body fairings - it took sometime to work out where everything went and the bonnet needed some "fettling" to allow the brackets to fit due to excess weld on the bracket but again this was straight forward.

Finally I fitted the Head Lights and the Fairings - I couldn't find the 3.2mm rivets called up in the manual so used the 4mm ones with the big heads.

It was then time to call it a day as Billy & Paddy my two Springer Spaniels were desperate for a walk, so off to Ham Hill for an hour or so.

5 hrs for me and 1 hr for Myles - total 118.5 hrs.

Dashboard

Another package arrived from Westfield - the replacement tunnel cover, cooling blanks, extra jubilee clips and a new lower steering column.  I fitted all the blanks and jubilee clips that (hopefully) won't need removing at a later stage of the build but left the ones for the scuttle.

Having confirmed that there was sufficient loom to allow me to install the dash but remove the scuttle to fit the bodywork I drilled the scuttle and fitted 4mm rivnuts for the dash.

First I mated the loom up to the instruments and switches and worked out where everything went.  To work out the sensor wiring I needed the chassis and engine wiring schematics and the instrument wiring diagrams and it was then straight forward which wire went where (although I need to confirm the green wire is the 12V controlled by ignition switch with Mark - the answer was Yes).  The loom will need some tidying up on final build.

Having swapped the indicator switch with the horn in the dash I had to extend the horn wires - used the Westfield supplied adapters and heat shrink to insulate.  Not the prettiest - might change to an in-line splice later.

The loom was designed for different instruments and Westfield had supplied a set of adapter cables to plug into the connectors and new instruments.  I decided that this wasn't the best way and dismantled all the plugs and connected direct to the instruments after insulating each of the crimp connectors with heat shrink. See 18 Sept post for speedo wiring

I sorted out the final routing of the main battery +ive cable from the starter solenoid, looming back behind the starter solenoid to take up the excess and hopefully avoiding the exhaust.  

Finally I fitted the new lower steering column.  This one is a single piece as it doesn't need to clear the standard induction manifold and therefore doesn't need the support bracket - hopefully I'll be able to start working on the bodywork and have enough access to fit the upper column when it arrives.


A very enjoyable 4 hrs in my comfort zone with the electrics - total 113 hrs

Cooling Expansion Tank

I continued with the cooling system, fitting the expansion tank. 2x 6mm rivnuts into the ali mount and bolted through from the inside of the scuttle with repair washers to spread the load.  I drilled through the plastic tab and another 6mm rivnut, bolt and trimmed repair washer. The tank provided has an extra 10mm coupling that has to be blanked, this will have to be fitted later when it arrives from Westfield.

Only 1hr as James was way Young Leadering and I was on taxi duty - total 109 hrs.

Fuel & Cooling Hoses

I got home from work and found a package from WF, Throttlebody mounting bolts, extra fuel hose and the upper steering column outer. 

First thing was to trial fit the steering column and mark out where the hole needed to be cut in the bulkhead.  Then drilled it with a 30mm hole saw and James filed/deburred the hole with sufficient clearance to allow a grommet to be added later on final fit.

Next was cutting the scuttle to clear the Steering Column.  After positioning and marking out to allow for the side panels I drilled through the scuttle with the same 32mm hole saw, then used a hacksaw to cut out the section and then cleaned off the edges with a half round file.

With the Scuttle now in a representative position I started adding the cooling hoses (leaving so excess to be trimmed once everything is fully in place) and clamping the solid pipe work in place using 6mm rivnuts into the chassis - the clamp mounted on the n/s upper chassis rail has been left loose as it will need a clearance hole in the side panel top rail t.  The expansion tank mounting is different to the info in the manual so another question for Mark.

Final job of the day was connecting the fuel hoses - and turning around the fuel filter which I'd managed to fit back to front - given that it was marked in/out on either end it must have been harder to get it wrong than right!!!







2.5 hrs for me and 0.5 hrs for for James - total 108 hrs.

Clutch connected & a general tidying up

Not much done today. Myles and I connected the clutch which was and interesting experience - we  eventually opted to disconnect the clutch pedal, connect up the clutch end of the cable, use the clutch pedal with the cable termination turned through 90 degrees to start the clutch action.  While Myles was holding the clutch pedal I used stilsons in reverse to action the clutch fully while Myles released the clutch pedal and refitted the clutch pin - I'll adjust the clutch cable later.  The rest of the time was spent tidying up the garage and checking through the rest of the kit.

Gearbox clutch connection

Clutch and accelerator stop bolts fitted 

2 hrs for me and 1 hr for Myles - total 105 hrs.

Engine Installed

The Throttlebodies, ECU and Loom arrived on Wednesday but, after unpacking and placing the loom on the chassis, I ended up with a number of questions that needed WF's input before I could go an further.  Having spoken to Mark Walker on Thursday I had all the answers I needed but then had to taxi children around South Somerset and worked in Bristol on Friday.
First thing this morning I fitted the injectors to the TBs and installed the ECU Loom.

Prior to installing the engine I installed the Oil Pressure Sensor.

 Once the engine was fitted I confirmed the gearbox oil filler hole that I'd cut after the first engine install was okay.

 I put the scuttle in place to make sure the ECU Loom missed the heater and windscreen wiper motor.

Started to fit the cooling system - radiator and pipe work (Exhaust manifold held on with 2 studs just to make sure all the wiring and cooling pipes have enough clearance) still got a fair amount left to do tomorrow.

Two boys getting in the way of the Throttlebodies.

Happy with the days work but TBs are only on with 2 studs because I'll need access to fit the steering column.

7 hrs for me,  0.5 each for hrs for Tricia,James and Myles 1 hr - total 102.0 hrs - broken the ton!

Dashboard and Speedo Sensor

Nothing done over the weekend as the next significant task is preparing the engine bay wiring and I was still waiting on the instrument sensor and ECU Loom.  Hooray - the instruments arrived this morning as promised, so I fitted the speedo sensor to the from hub and Myles populated the dash.

Sensor and cable routing combined with repeater cable.  With 205/50R15 Tyres having 900 revolutions/mile (thanks KugaWestie at WSSC) and 4 bolt heads the speedo start setting needs to be 3600 pulses and it has to over read so I might deduct another 100 or so - another thing to ask Mark at Westfield next time I need to call. - Mark confirmed the factory cars are set to ~3650 and emailed me a letter confirming the set up for the IVA as VOSA have problems testing car with front wheel sensors

Myles followed the wiring diagram for the switch positions but having the washer so far away from the wipers doesn't seem to make much sense so we'll see how much flexibility there in in the loom to change them when we mate the dash to the scuttle.

Hopefully there will be some deliveries from Westfield this week that includes the ECU Loom that they are expecting from OMEX and then I should be able to get the engine installed over the weekend; otherwise it's back to the cycle wings that I put off doing this weekend!

1 hr each for Myles and I - total 93.0 hrs .

FW Rear Light Wiring

Having struggled to work out how to wire the connectors for the rear lights I thought it might be useful to detail what I'd learnt.

First - the o/s and n/s rear light each have two connectors, one is two pin for the reverse light (n/s) and fog light (o/s) and a six pin for the combined indicator/brake/side light.  The wiring is thus:  (read in conjunction with the chassis harness (2921170) Drawing # 4833 D - supplied with the loom a slightly older version is at http://www.manikllc.com/manuals/ )

N/S
Reverse Light:
Grey > Black 139
Grey Red > Green Brown 113
Combined Brake/Side Light White spliced with Indicator Grey then > connector Black 140- earth
Combined Brake/Side Light Red  > connector Green Purple 116 - brake
Combined Brake/Side Light Blue > connector Red Orange 32 - side light
Indicator Grey Red > Green Red 88 - indicator

O/S
Fog Light:
Grey > Black 134
Grey Red > Red Blue 99
Combined Brake/Side Light White spliced with Indicator Grey then > connector Black135 - earth
Combined Brake/Side Light Red  > connector Green Purple 115 - brake
Combined Brake/Side Light Blue > connector Green White 82 - side light
Indicator Grey Red > Red Black 51 - indicator

Seal and Pin



How not to do it


How to do it - you could solder rather that crimp but  you must keep the "lock" area clear of wire/solder

Suitable crimp tool that forms a B

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120873702981?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_809wt_1037

Once crimped you can solder but, the purist would say you shouldn't - it really depends if you've used the correct crimp tool.  As my wife would say "feck it, solder it" that's what I did and looking at it it's also what the loom supplier did!

When you insert the pin into the connector shell you need to ensure that the pin is the correct way around to allow the shell lock to click into the pin lock space.  Once you have all the pins fitted you insert the yellow seal/lock with it's ridges pushing into the shell slots and locking in the pin locks with a final click, it then should not be loose/fall out.  You can use a scribe to check each lock before fitting the seal. Finally you should fill empty shell pin slots with a seal but Westfield didn't supply - a pin with a seal crimped or silicone would probably do.

If you have to use excessive force when connecting the chassis loom to your newly made connector  check that the connector is assembled correctly.  If you remove the yellow seal/lock and any of the locks are misaligned remove the pin and check that the lock area of the pin is clear and the pin was inserted the correct way around, again you can use a scribe to check.

Apologies if you're an expert and this is teaching granny to suck eggs but it took me a number of attempts to get this right and, although many sleeps ago, I worked on aircraft wiring looms and avionics boxes for a living.

Head Lights wiring to follow!!!

More bodywork

A busy enough day:

I started of with Myles breaking down the bodywork and putting the the side panels and rear wheel arches back into storage.  



Fettled the boot until I was happy with the fit and by now James had joined me.  He drilled the boot and fitted M5 rivnuts into the rear body.  After a trial fit of the boot lid I replace the front row of button head screws with countersunk at a later date.

The wiper motor mount arrived in the post so I fitted it with M6 button head/repair washers and worked the drive tube.  The final tightening will need the screen and fillet at a later date.

Next James fitted the cycle wing mounts and cut the "bighead" bolts down to ~17.5mm while I marked and drilled the mounts.  Trial fitted to cycle wings and worked out the marking for the future fitting.

Final activity of the day was to drill the chassis mounts for the gearbox and n/s lower engine mount and spray them both with Hammerite (still wet in the photo!).

4 hrs for me,  2 hrs for James and Myles 0.5 hrs - total 91.0 hrs .

Almost a day without working on the car

Not a lot going on today.  A phone call to Mark at Westfield to discuss the various questions raised over the weekend; he confirmed that the chassis drilling from the initial engine fit was within the norms and that the n/s mount has a fair amount of adjustment in it so okay to drill to one side of the markings.  I almost left things at that but, having seen a couple of build sites where 3M carbon fibre effect had been used to bling up various parts of the car, I decided to do the same; starting with the pedal box cover.

And here it is - 2nd try though! - note the cover has to be trimmed to size before fitting so I should have waited!

about an 1 hr for me,  so 85.5 hrs in total so far

Bodywork

Boys both back from Scoutfest but now at work stop on the chassis waiting on confirmation of gearbox and engine mount drilling and the ECU Loom.  Myles wanted to get a seat down and fit it to the car and, while I was in the roof space, I got down the side body panels as well to see what they looked like on the chassis.

James fitting the rest of the bolts

O/S  Clamped up with a couple of bolts fitted

N/S all finished

Bonnet and body work together

We ran out of plastic bolts and when I checked the order I'd only bought 12 so James finished off the rest of the holes  with the M6 bolts supplied by Westfield.  We will have to take it all apart again to clean all the holes and seal up the joints on final assembly be for the moment it will be  safely stored for when the rest of the bits for the chassis arrive.

4 hrs for me, 1 hr each for James and Myles - total 84.5 hrs 

Move the ECU Mount

oh dear!

I had the morning to work on the car so got the scuttle down from the roof space and fitted the heater and wipers - up to the point when I realised that the wiper motor mount wasn't in the bag with the motor and other parts.  I decided to look at the problem with the ECU mount that Rhett had noticed on an earlier post.  I positioned the scuttle on to the car and, sure enough, the heater nozzle was pointing straight at the ECU panel.  I had previously considered buying a new silicone hose to extend the nozzle beyond the ECU, but once in-situ this would block off half the mount so the obvious (and cheapest) solution was to move the mount.

1.5 hours later.....

looks better

 Scuttle "in-place"

starting to look more like a car

I fitted the and prop shaft using the newly fitted handbrake to hold the diff whilst I torqued up each bolt and fitted the Heated Windscreen loom after labelling it up.  Finally Gave the garage a good clean up and returned all the tools to their rightful places while I was looking for the wiper motor mount!

4 hrs - total 78.5 hrs , now off the Ham Hill with the dogs, then to the Prince of Wales for lunch before heading off the Wincanton to pick up the children from Scoutfest 2012.

Handbrake arrived and installed

 The handbrake cable arrived first thing this morning, thus depriving me of any excuse not to go shopping with Tricia.   Got back at 10:30 and set to work installing the cable.  Initial fit fairly straight forward sorting the routing from the tunnel, round the diff, drive shafts and wishbones.  Installing to the calipers needed a little "fettling" especially as the n/s caliper cable mount seemed a little askew at first.  Then into the tunnel to connect the handbrake which required a fair amount of adjusting to give enough slack.  Once everything was connected I ty-wrapped the cable to the wishbones, not quite where the build manual suggested but the cable wouldn't reach and I also had to allow for the different calipers.  A couple of test pulls and adjustments and all seemed fine for now.

n/s handbrake cable fitted (ignore the fuel hoses fitted next)

o/s handbrake cable all ty-wrapped in place

Then on to the fuel tank, I'd already prepared all the hoses and fixing straps so this was a relatively easy connection until I came to fitting the washers and nuts to the front (of the car) strap.  Unfortunately my sausage like fingers and beefy arms struggled to find away into the gap so what I thought was a minute or so task took almost half an hour.

fuel tank fitted and plumbed in 

Before I packed up I labelled up the Zetec Loom (not the ECU Loom that hasn't arrived yet) and then roughly orientated it in the engine bay.

3 hrs for me, James and Myles both at Scoutfest http://www.facebook.com/events/197176367020477/
 for the weekend - total 74.5 hrs - now off to B&Q, Homebase etc with Tricia.

Engine in then out again!

I got off to a good start.  Call to Mark at Westfield confirmed that the indicator and brake/side light earth had to be spliced as there was only 1 earth pin in the connector.  Assembled connectors in day light and eventually worked out how the pin locking mechanism worked - required some pins to be remade and ensuring the orientation of the pin in the connector shell was correct.  Also added extra ty-wrap mounts around the back end of the car to ensure 150mm/6" of fixings.

A call from Jason confirmed that the handbrake cable had been dispatched for delivery tomorrow so I should be able to get the rear fuel system and fuel tank installed over the weekend.  James & I got the car off the stands and on to it's wheels to have a trial engine installation.

It took some trial and error to work out the best way to get the engine/gearbox fitted and very happy that I paid the extra for the leveller.  I had fitted the radiator and fan but had to remove it to get the hoist close enough to the front of the chassis.

Not much space between the chassis and the rear of the engine

 Marked the engine and gearbox mounts for drilling but will check with Mark first as without the ECU & loom I can't install the engine anyway!  Engine removed and preparation for tomorrow's delivery. Once again a couple of steps back, I had to un-rivet the first tunnel cover to be able to scribe the gearbox mount.

Gearbox mount marked for drilling

n/s engine mount marked for drilling

5 hrs for me, 1 hr each for James and Myles - total 71.5 hrs